Monday, April 23, 2012

Stewart Island

After the depressing pause in Invercargill, I landed on Stewart Island, which quickly became my favorite part of New Zealand. The initial plan was to stay for 2 days, but imediately upon arrival I received an email from my Dunedin farm job stating that they had a family emergency and would not be able to host me. I spent the first day sort of nervously walking around the island trying to figure out where I would go next. I knew I didn't have enough money to travel until the next farm job 2 weeks later. On a whim, I told my story to the lady who owned the hostel and asked if she knew of any work I could do on the island. She invited me to come work at the hostel for 2 hours in the morning and in exchange her mother would let me have a room at the neighboring hotel for free. My room was small, but reminded me of what a 1920s Parisian hotel room would look like, only I didn't need to pretend I was in Paris, because Stewart Island was the only place I wanted to be. I spent the next week in complete bliss.

Stewart Island only has 300 residents, and is far from being a tourist destination. The townspeople were friendly and generous, their beaches and forests were empty and gorgeous.     
                                        
On the second day, I arranged a ride with an old fisherman out to Ulva Island, the bird sanctuary. The entire island was glowing.







That whole week I spent walking, and walking, and walking. I wanted to see everything.


                             


a goat whose path I crossed
                                                     Windblown trees

The Maori name for Stewart Island is Rakiura which means 'glowing skies'


a Tui!

a great little cemetery I found hidden near one of the beaches

I forget what this bird is called (I am already failing at my amatuer ornithology) but I know it is a New Zealand Parrot

I made friends with the owner of the Stewart Island guided kayak tours. After about a week of me being there, she asked if I would give a guided kayak tour for her while she was busy with other work. I said yes. Then she asked me if I had ever kayaked. I said yes again. She handed me the map and a life jacket. This is Senne, a Holland man who I guided around Stewart Island to the best of my ability. He knew I was a farce, I think he had a good time anyway.

a Stewart Island Shag

Yard decorations

Everything about my time spent on Stewart Island was perfect. I want to go back and live there forever and ever. Unfortunately, the date printed on my little ferry ticket arrived and I had to say goodbye. 

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